RM GUIDE TO PORTUGAL

5lbs in Pasteis de Nata around the waistline ain’t the only thing you’ll walk away with after some time in Portugal, but it sure as hell is one of the best souvenirs to carry around afterwards.

I have to say overall, this country surpassed my expectations. I assumed it would be beautiful (thanks to Google images and boho-curated instagram accounts), but you can never really confirm the vibe ‘till you get there.

Turns out, everyone is gracious AF and only want to make sure you are enjoying your time in their country. Portugal has an incredibly generous, helpful, and unpretentious culture – full of fantastic food, incredible wine (and that’s from someone who is sensitive to it), infinite amounts of curated shops, charming bookstores and an abundance of art galleries.

Add that to an immaculate climate – warm yet dry with proximity to the ocean – and you’ve got yourself an unmatched escape. And lest we forget that almost every stroll is accompanied by faint sounds of Bossa Nova in the streets, spilling out of cafes and echoing through the summer breeze.

If I were to make one recommendation I would say GO. Go now.
And smuggle some Natas over for me.

xx

* Note: We travelled with two other familes + friends and it was a great trip for all. I would note however, that we’re glad we waited until (most) kids were 5 yrs + because strollers and nap schedules are a huge pain in the ass.

WHAT TO PACK

First things first, we don’t need you hurling a 50 lbs suitcase across the airport so we’re going to get practical and pack easy. Yah yah – some may argue they need “options” but hear me out, the vibe is so deeply chill you will not need to take yourself that seriously – esp in beach towns, but Lisbon too.

Read: this means one pair of heels if any as most of the streets are uphill and made of tiny (slippery) stone and no one needs a broken fucking ankle.

A LIST:

2 x light denim jeans (one blk, one light)
3 x shorts (one blk, one denim, one white or pattern)
1 x denim jacket (note: there are tons of beautiful handmade brooches there)
1 x long cover up (blk) (something silky and flowy is nice)
3 x cotton tanks (my still fave is American Apparel from the good old days)
2 x silk camis (vintage)
1 x silk blouse (vintage)
2 x daytime cotton dresses (blk short can be worn with sneakers + another easy daytime )
2 x “looks” – this can be a special vintage dress or blazer, a piece that can elevate an outfit for an unexpected night out in the city (you never know)
3 x swimwear (which will be worn under most of the above)
1 x heeled sandal
2 x flat sandals
1 x converse (best for airports)
1 x beach hat (which you will get there)

Note to the wise: Ditch the bras. Bring one or two if you’re a creature of comfort, but once you’re there you’ll be inspired to set them on fire and live your best life. It’s Europe babe, no one cares.

And remember, It’s better to pack just enough and not too much because you need room for shopping. Portugal is bursting at the seams with (inexpensive) gifting including handmade soaps, linen beachwear and nonna-approved lace – trust me when I tell you that you will want to import it ALL. The 12 Euro straw beach hat I scored would easily be a sweet $60 on Queen West.

LAGOS:

We stayed at a magical place called Casa Mae, which was lovingly referred to us by our very dear friends (who had vacationed there twice before).  Beyond it being a visual dream, it was also perfect for families (in a quiet, non all-inclusive way). The enclosed grounds made our kids an earshot away late into the night. Needless to say the women behind this gem is a Parisian muse, and has taken great care in delivering the details – farm-to-table food, a curated shop within the hotel, and sweet little additions like wicker baskets in the rooms for your beachy adventures.

photo via casa-mae.com

Beaches to hop:
Arrifana (surfers beach), Burgau, Praia da Rocha, Praia do Camilo, Meia Praia
Restaurants:
Orta at Casa Mae, Mar Destorias, Restaurante o Camilo, Nevagador, Tosca Jota (our fave)
Shops to play in:
Shop at Casa Mae, Mar d’Estorias, Patio Azul

Also check out this Street Art Guide and if you have time, book a Cave Tour.

 

Of course, there are many seaside towns and stunning places to stay in South Portugal like Cascais, Faro, Tavira and and more. Here’s a general guide via Conde Naste of you’re lookin’.

LISBON:

Lisbon brings with it a much more complex list of options – it is, after all, the capital of the country. Narrow cobble streets, passing Tuk Tuks, and interesting faces line the streets in this lively city. Yet with all that bustle, Lisbon somehow manages to exude a certain kind of calm. A vibe that’s all it’s own – a relaxed feel with a little Brazilian spice. Sexy in a comfortable way.

We stayed at Corpo Santo, a short walk from the Chiado area which is a great neighbourhood to roam. Other neighbourhoods we instantly fell in love with included Alfama, Bairro Alto, Cais do Sodre, and Principe Real (where you will most definitely need to pop into the Embaixada Concept Store among the many adorable shops and bookstores in the area).

A hotel to check out: Memmo which boasts insane views and is one of the only hotels in Lisbon with a pool.

And don’t leave without a walk through the Jardim Gulbenkian, a.k.a. the grounds of the Gulbenkian Museum and an afternoon spent roaming LX Factory (think Distillery District vibes) where you can end your day on the Rio Maravilha rooftop.

 

Must Eat at:  Mu Gelato (Italian heaven), Manteigaria (the best Pasteis de Nata you will have), Pasteis de Belem (legendary bakery with famous natas too), Zapata (traditional goodness), Bairro do Avillez (chill but world renowned), Comoba (best breakfast/lunch), M’arrecreo Pizzeria + Puttana Pizza (always time for pizza), Time Out Market (legit the best variety of food ever – you will go back multiple times), In Bocca Al Lupo (organic seasonal Italian), Atalho Real (stunning location and a must for meat lovers), Sumaya Lebanese (in case you wanna switch it up), Naked Cafe (fresh, clean, healthy), Tapisco (tapas and such)

Check out: All the vintage stores at LX Factory, Bernardo Atelier (adorable gifts, clothing, homewares),  Under the Cover Bookstore (which houses books and magazines you won’t be able to find anywhere), and *name of home decor store* inside Embaixada. And if you have some extra energy lying around (and a babysitter on hand), go for drinks at Parc (where a walk through underground parking takes you to a rooftop party) and the Gin Bar at Embaixada.

And with that, I wish you glorious travels to Portugal or wherever else the wind blows you (I mean, Spain is right there). Do me one favour, though: don’t plan too much. Get lost, discover, try not to solely rely on Google Maps and see where that takes you. Most times, it’s somewhere special.

xx

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Photos by Aleksandra Jassem captured on iPhone X
(high res photo album will be live soon!)

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